5 Shoe Construction Methods and How to Pick One

March 19, 2023

If you’re a shoe enthusiast, you know that not all shoes are created equal. The construction method plays a significant role in a shoe’s comfort, durability, and overall quality. In this article, we’ll explore five popular shoe construction methods: Cemented, Blake, Blake Rapid, Goodyear Welt, and Norwegian. We’ll discuss their pros and cons to help you make an informed decision when choosing your next pair of shoes.

1. Cemented Construction

Cemented construction, also known as glued or bonded construction, is a method where the upper is attached to the sole using an adhesive. This technique is commonly used in mass-produced shoes due to its simplicity and lower cost.

Pros:

• Affordable and cost-effective
• Lightweight
• Sleek and streamlined appearance

Cons:

• Limited durability and lifespan
• Difficult or impossible to resole
• Lower quality compared to stitched constructions

Cemented construction offers an affordable option for those looking for stylish and lightweight shoes. However, the use of adhesive instead of stitching makes them less durable and harder to resole, which means they may not last as long as other constructions. This method is ideal for those seeking a budget-friendly option or for shoes that won’t be worn extensively.

2. Blake Construction

The Blake construction method involves stitching the upper, insole, and outsole directly together. This results in a sleek, lightweight shoe that hugs the foot closely.

Pros:

• Lightweight and flexible
• Slimmer and more elegant profile
• Easier to resole compared to cemented construction

Cons:

• Less water-resistant compared to Goodyear Welt and Norwegian constructions
• Reduced support due to the absence of a welt
• Requires a specialized machine for resoling

Blake-constructed shoes offer a balance between elegance and functionality. Their slim profile and lightweight design make them a popular choice for dress shoes. However, the absence of a welt means they are less water-resistant and offer less support than other constructions. The resoling process requires a specialized machine, so finding a skilled cobbler may be challenging.

3. Blake Rapid Construction

The Blake Rapid construction method is a variation of the Blake construction that adds a midsole between the insole and outsole. This additional layer improves durability and support while maintaining a slim profile.

Pros:

• Enhanced durability compared to standard Blake construction
• Better support due to the added midsole
• Still maintains a relatively slim profile

Cons:

• Slightly heavier and less flexible than standard Blake construction
• Less water-resistant compared to Goodyear Welt and Norwegian constructions
• Requires a specialized machine for resoling

Blake Rapid shoes offer improved durability and support compared to standard Blake-constructed shoes, thanks to the added midsole. While they are slightly heavier and less flexible, they still maintain a slim and elegant profile. Like standard Blake construction, resoling Blake Rapid shoes requires a specialized machine and a skilled cobbler.

4. Goodyear Welt Construction

The Goodyear Welt construction is a time-honored method that features a strip of leather (called a welt) sewn around the perimeter of the shoe, connecting the upper, insole, and outsole. This method is highly regarded for its durability and the ease of resoling.

Pros:

• Excellent durability and long-lasting construction
• Easily resolable, extending the shoe’s lifespan
• Superior water resistance due to the welt acting as a barrier

Cons:

• Heavier and less flexible compared to Blake and Blake Rapid constructions
• More expensive due to the labor-intensive process
• Bulky profile may not be suitable for all styles

Goodyear Welt shoes are known for their exceptional durability and water resistance, making them a popular choice for high-quality footwear. While they are heavier and less flexible than other constructions, they can be easily resoled, ensuring a long lifespan. This method is ideal for those seeking long-lasting shoes that can withstand various weather conditions and usage.

5. Norwegian Construction

The Norwegian construction method, also known as Storm welt or Norwegian welt, features two rows of stitching connecting the upper, insole, and outsole. The first row attaches the upper to the insole, while the second row connects the upper, welt, and outsole. This construction is highly regarded for its water resistance and durability.

Pros:

• Outstanding water resistance due to the double stitching
• Extremely durable and long-lasting
• Easily resolable, extending the shoe’s lifespan

Cons:

• Heavier and less flexible compared to other constructions
• More expensive due to the labor-intensive process
• Unique aesthetic may not be suitable for all styles

Norwegian-constructed shoes offer exceptional water resistance and durability, thanks to the double stitching method. While they are heavier and less flexible than other constructions, their resoling process is relatively straightforward, ensuring a long lifespan. This construction is ideal for those seeking robust shoes that can withstand various weather conditions and heavy usage.

In conclusion, understanding the different shoe construction methods can help you make a more informed decision when choosing your next pair of shoes. Each method has its pros and cons, and the right choice depends on your personal preferences, budget, and the specific needs of your lifestyle. Happy shoe shopping!